| Vehicle Category | Stud Size | Typical Torque |
|---|---|---|
| Compact cars (Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla) | M12×1.5 | 80 ft·lbs (108 N·m) |
| Mid-size sedans (Camry, Accord) | M12×1.5 | 76–90 ft·lbs (103–122 N·m) |
| European cars (BMW, VW, Audi) | M14×1.5 (bolt) | 89–110 ft·lbs (120–150 N·m) |
| Full-size trucks (F-150, Ram 1500) | M14×1.5 | 130–150 ft·lbs (176–203 N·m) |
| Heavy-duty trucks (F-250, Ram 2500) | M14×2.0 | 140–165 ft·lbs (190–224 N·m) |
| SUVs (Wrangler, 4Runner) | 1/2"-20 | 85–115 ft·lbs (115–156 N·m) |
Always use a torque wrench. Impact guns are for removal and snugging only. Final tightening must be done with a calibrated torque wrench. Over-torquing warps brake rotors and can stretch or break studs.
Tighten in a star pattern. Never tighten lug nuts in a circle. Use a star (criss-cross) pattern to ensure even clamping pressure across the wheel.
Re-torque after 50–100 miles. Wheels can settle after initial installation. Check torque again after the first drive of any meaningful distance.
Clean threads matter. Dirty, rusty, or damaged threads will give false torque readings. Clean stud threads with a wire brush before installation. Do NOT use anti-seize or lubricant on lug nuts unless the manufacturer specifically calls for it — the published torque values assume dry threads.