General lug nut torque guidelines by vehicle category. For your exact vehicle, see lug nut torque specs by make and model.
| Vehicle Category | Stud Size | Typical Torque |
|---|---|---|
| Compact cars (Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla) | M12×1.5 | 80 ft·lbs (108 N·m) |
| Mid-size sedans (Camry, Accord) | M12×1.5 | 76–90 ft·lbs (103–122 N·m) |
| European cars (BMW, Volkswagen, Audi) | M14×1.5 (bolt) | 89–110 ft·lbs (120–150 N·m) |
| Full-size trucks (F-150, Ram 1500) | M14×1.5 | 130–150 ft·lbs (176–203 N·m) |
| Heavy-duty trucks (F-250, Ram 2500) | M14×1.5 | 140–165 ft·lbs (190–224 N·m) |
| SUVs (Wrangler, 4Runner) | 1/2"-20 | 85–115 ft·lbs (115–156 N·m) |
These are category averages. Your vehicle has one specific figure — look it up in the lug nut torque database, which covers 102 models across 19 makes with bolt pattern, thread size, socket and tightening sequence for each.
Always use a torque wrench. Impact guns are for removal and snugging only. Final tightening must be done with a calibrated torque wrench. Over-torquing warps brake rotors and can stretch or break studs.
Tighten in a star pattern. Never tighten lug nuts in a circle. Use a star (criss-cross) pattern to ensure even clamping pressure across the wheel.
Re-torque after 50–100 miles. Wheels can settle after initial installation. Check torque again after the first drive of any meaningful distance.
Clean threads matter. Dirty, rusty, or damaged threads will give false torque readings. Clean stud threads with a wire brush before installation. Do NOT use anti-seize or lubricant on lug nuts unless the manufacturer specifically calls for it — the published torque values assume dry threads.