2011–2026 · 5×114.3 pattern · M12×1.5 studs · 21 mm socket
Torque anywhere in the 79–94 ft·lbs band is within spec; 86 ft·lbs sits in the middle. Tighten in a star sequence with a calibrated torque wrench — never an impact gun for the final pass — and re-torque after 50–100 miles.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Torque | 79–94 ft·lbs (107–127 N·m) |
| Bolt pattern (PCD) | 5×114.3 |
| Thread size | M12×1.5 |
| Socket size | 21 mm (six-point) |
| Fasteners per wheel | 5 |
| Fastener type | Lug nuts on pressed-in studs |
| Tightening sequence | 1 → 3 → 5 → 2 → 4 |
| Applies to | 2011–2026 |
The spec changed between generations — match the row to your model year before setting the wrench.
| Years | Pattern | Thread | Torque |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2011–2026 | 5×114.3 | M12×1.5 | 79–94 ft·lbs (107–127 N·m) |
| 2003–2009 (BL) | 6×139.7 | M12×1.5 | 79–94 ft·lbs (107–127 N·m) |
With five lugs there is no true “opposite” nut, so skip one each time: tighten lug 1, then the second lug counter-clockwise from it, and keep going. The result is a five-pointed star. Number the 5 positions clockwise from the top and follow the order above on every pass.
1. Clean the threads and mating faces. Wire-brush the stud threads and wipe the hub face. Rust or grit between the wheel and hub gives a false torque reading and lets the joint loosen as it beds in.
2. Start every lug nut by hand. Cross-threading a M12×1.5 stud or hub is an expensive repair. Seat all 5 before any wrench touches them.
3. Snug in sequence to about 43 ft·lbs. A first pass at roughly half spec pulls the wheel square to the hub before final torque.
4. Final pass to 79–94 ft·lbs (107–127 N·m) in the same sequence. Use a calibrated click or digital wrench and stop at the click — do not add “one more nudge”.
5. Re-torque after 50–100 miles. Alloy wheels in particular settle after the first drive. Re-check in the same sequence.