2006–2026 (Mk5–Mk8) · 5×112 pattern · M14×1.5 bolts · 17 mm socket
This is a single-point spec, not a range — set the wrench to exactly 89 ft·lbs. Tighten in a star sequence with a calibrated torque wrench — never an impact gun for the final pass — and re-torque after 50–100 miles.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Torque | 89 ft·lbs (121 N·m) |
| Bolt pattern (PCD) | 5×112 |
| Thread size | M14×1.5 |
| Socket size | 17 mm (six-point) |
| Fasteners per wheel | 5 |
| Fastener type | Wheel bolts (thread into hub) |
| Tightening sequence | 1 → 3 → 5 → 2 → 4 |
| Applies to | 2006–2026 (Mk5–Mk8) |
The spec changed between generations — match the row to your model year before setting the wrench.
| Years | Pattern | Thread | Torque |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2006–2026 (Mk5–Mk8) | 5×112 | M14×1.5 | 89 ft·lbs (121 N·m) |
| 1999–2006 (Mk4) | 5×100 | M14×1.5 | 89 ft·lbs (121 N·m) |
With five lugs there is no true “opposite” nut, so skip one each time: tighten lug 1, then the second lug counter-clockwise from it, and keep going. The result is a five-pointed star. Number the 5 positions clockwise from the top and follow the order above on every pass.
1. Clean the threads and mating faces. Wire-brush the hub threads and wipe the hub face. Rust or grit between the wheel and hub gives a false torque reading and lets the joint loosen as it beds in.
2. Start every wheel bolt by hand. Cross-threading a M14×1.5 stud or hub is an expensive repair. Seat all 5 before any wrench touches them.
3. Snug in sequence to about 44 ft·lbs. A first pass at roughly half spec pulls the wheel square to the hub before final torque.
4. Final pass to 89 ft·lbs (121 N·m) in the same sequence. Use a calibrated click or digital wrench and stop at the click — do not add “one more nudge”.
5. Re-torque after 50–100 miles. Alloy wheels in particular settle after the first drive. Re-check in the same sequence.