2014–2026 · 8×165.1 pattern · M14×1.5 studs · 22 mm socket
This is a single-point spec, not a range — set the wrench to exactly 145 ft·lbs. Tighten in a star sequence with a calibrated torque wrench — never an impact gun for the final pass — and re-torque after 50–100 miles.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Torque | 145 ft·lbs (197 N·m) |
| Bolt pattern (PCD) | 8×165.1 |
| Thread size | M14×1.5 |
| Socket size | 22 mm (six-point) |
| Fasteners per wheel | 8 |
| Fastener type | Lug nuts on pressed-in studs |
| Tightening sequence | 1 → 5 → 3 → 7 → 2 → 6 → 4 → 8 |
| Applies to | 2014–2026 |
With eight lugs, work in opposite pairs and alternate sides of the hub so the wheel pulls down evenly against the mounting face. Number the 8 positions clockwise from the top and follow the order above on every pass.
1. Clean the threads and mating faces. Wire-brush the stud threads and wipe the hub face. Rust or grit between the wheel and hub gives a false torque reading and lets the joint loosen as it beds in.
2. Start every lug nut by hand. Cross-threading a M14×1.5 stud or hub is an expensive repair. Seat all 8 before any wrench touches them.
3. Snug in sequence to about 72 ft·lbs. A first pass at roughly half spec pulls the wheel square to the hub before final torque.
4. Final pass to 145 ft·lbs (197 N·m) in the same sequence. Use a calibrated click or digital wrench and stop at the click — do not add “one more nudge”.
5. Re-torque after 50–100 miles. Alloy wheels in particular settle after the first drive. Re-check in the same sequence.