2014–2026 · 8×165.1 pattern · M14×1.5 studs · 22 mm socket
This is a single-point spec, not a range — set the wrench to exactly 130 ft·lbs. Tighten in a star sequence with a calibrated torque wrench — never an impact gun for the final pass — and re-torque after 50–100 miles.
| Specification | Value |
|---|---|
| Torque | 130 ft·lbs (176 N·m) |
| Bolt pattern (PCD) | 8×165.1 |
| Thread size | M14×1.5 |
| Socket size | 22 mm (six-point) |
| Fasteners per wheel | 8 |
| Fastener type | Lug nuts on pressed-in studs |
| Tightening sequence | 1 → 5 → 3 → 7 → 2 → 6 → 4 → 8 |
| Applies to | 2014–2026 |
Filled circle = first lug. Arrows show the tightening order.
With eight lugs, work in opposite pairs and alternate sides of the hub so the wheel pulls down evenly against the mounting face. Number the 8 positions clockwise from the top and follow the order above on every pass.
1. Clean the threads and mating faces. Wire-brush the stud threads and wipe the hub face. Rust or grit between the wheel and hub gives a false torque reading and lets the joint loosen as it beds in.
2. Start every lug nut by hand. Cross-threading a M14×1.5 stud or hub is an expensive repair. Seat all 8 before any wrench touches them.
3. Snug in sequence to about 65 ft·lbs. A first pass at roughly half spec pulls the wheel square to the hub before final torque.
4. Final pass to 130 ft·lbs (176 N·m) in the same sequence. Use a calibrated click or digital wrench and stop at the click — do not add “one more nudge”.
5. Re-torque after 50–100 miles. Alloy wheels in particular settle after the first drive. Re-check in the same sequence.